We spent a pleasant night at Aidar’s Homestay in Yamg (Vrang). The homestay has nice twin rooms and the family Aidar is very nice. The sanitary facilities are always problematic. For about 20 people there are one toilet and one shower.
In the morning we enjoy the sunrise and watch the life awaken. A young man drives a herd of goats up the stony slope behind our accommodation. Two others remain in the valley and have fun together while the goats are grazing.
Before we go again, the driver welds something on the front wheel of our car. Fortunately, our drivers always know how to help themselves. The next garage would be far away.
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More InformationIn the valley, we drive back a part of the way we came yesterday. Then it goes steeply uphill to the Yamchun Fortress. But first, we leave the fortress lying on the right and continue the road to its end. Here is the Bibi Fatima Hot Springs.
Bibi Fatima Hot Springs
Hot water rises from a crevice and is collected in pools, of course, separated for men and women. We forego a bath and try to communicate a little with the locals.
On the way back we first stop at the Yamchun Fortress.
Yamchun Fortress
The Yamchun Fortress sits enthroned on a ledge at 3,000 meters above the Wakhan Valley. The 900 m long and 400 m wide complex was guarded by 36 towers. The fortification was built by the king-brothers Qahqaha and Zangibor. It is also called the fortress of the fire-worshippers.
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More InformationThe fortress was built in the 3rd century BC and is considered the largest defense facility in the Wakhan Valley. All fortresses here serve to protect, but also to control the caravans on the Silk Road.
On the way back we visit the Yamg Wakhani Museum
Yamg Wakhani Museum
We stay at Aidar’s Guesthouse. Aidar is also the director of the Yamg Wakhani Museum. It is a museum for its ancestor, the Sufi, scholar, and astronomer Muborak Wakhoni (1842-1902).
Today, the marvelous residential building houses a museum for handwritings, old skilled crafts, and home appliances, as well as an unusual collection of musical instruments. The house has a central heating and an artfully designed ceiling.
Before we enter the house, Aidar shows us the stone solar calendar, which shows the equinoxes. If the sun rays fall through a stone gate on the slope of the neighboring mountain and through the hole in the stone in front of his house, then it’s time to celebrate the Spring Festival Navruz.
On the mountain slope is also a very old temple of the fire worshipers.
After visiting the house, Mr. Aidar plays some pieces on the old instruments.
Back at our Home Stay, we get another lunch before we continue the journey to Langar. However, something has to be welded to the car again beforehand. The first attempt was probably not quite successful.
An old minibus serves as a tool shed and tool store. Next door, the roof of the goat’s stable is being repaired.
Please read on > From Yamg to Langar
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