We booked a direct flight to Cape Verde from Luxembourg. Our intention is to explore the islands and, above all, to learn about the people and their culture.
Two years ago, we met a friendly salesman at the famous sardine shop, ‘O Mundo Fantástico das Sardinhas Portuguesas’ in Porto, Portugal. We started talking, and he told us that he was from Cape Verde. He told us about the carnival celebrations in Mindelo on the island of São Vicente, which are held in the style of the Rio de Janeiro carnival. This piqued our interest. Now, two years later, the timing is right, and we want to experience the carnival firsthand.
It is early February, and we haven’t seen the sun for weeks. Our flight departs shortly after 6:00 a.m., so we had to wake up at 2:00 a.m. It is cloudy and rainy again today. Our flight takes us from Luxembourg via France, Spain, and Portugal, past Morocco.
Above the Canary Islands, the clouds clear for the first time, and we catch a glimpse of Tenerife. The sky finally clears as we approach Cape Verde.
We see the island of Santo Antão, famous for its mountains and lush greenery, but it is not one of our destinations. Shortly after, we begin our descent to Cesária Évora International Airport on the island of São Vicente. A taxi driver is waiting for us and takes us directly to the Blue Marlin Hotel.
On the way, we get our first impression of the island’s dry landscape. We drive along the coast and see the cruise ship Mein Schiff 7 moored in the harbor.
The taxi then takes us through the center of Mindelo, past the ‘Belém Tower Replica – a replica of the Belém Tower in Lisbon – and directly to our hotel.
The Blue Marlin Hotel is a four-star hotel built on the slopes of Alto de São Nicolau (St. Nicholas Hill), below the Royal Fortress. It offers beautiful, panoramic views of the Mindelo bay and harbor.
Josina Fortes is waiting for us at the front desk, ready to assist guests with advice and assistance at any time.
The hotel is spotless, the food is excellent, and the staff is always friendly. The hotel has a pool that is great for swimming. There is a large apartment with a spacious living room and bedroom in the attic.
In addition, there are two extra bedrooms with double beds and separate bathrooms. The roof terrace has a private pool and an excellent view.
After we arrived, we quickly made our way to the center of Mindelo to get our first impressions. It can be reached after a 10- to 15-minute walk. The cobbled streets take some getting used to, as concrete roads are only found in the city center.
At the intersection of Avenida Marginal and Rua Liberdade de Africa, the monument “The Bird” immediately catches the eye; it is dedicated to the two navigators Gago Coutinho and Sacadura Cabral.
These two achieved the first flight across the South Atlantic route from Lisbon to Rio de Janeiro in 1922.
Right next to it is Praça Dom Luís, which features a monument to Cesária Évora, the most famous woman and singer of Cape Verde. She became world-famous and was considered the queen of morna. Morna originated in Boavista and is a typical song in Cape Verdean Creole.
A few meters further on, we come across another replica of the Belém Tower. Fish is cut up and sold on the street at its feet.
The actual fish market is located on the other side of the tower, which we will visit later. The street market is on Rua Eduardo de Balsemao, in front of the tower.
At the end of the market is the Mercado da Praça da Estrela, also known as the African Market. Many clothing items are sold here. There are also numerous clothing stores on the side streets. However, these are usually Chinese-owned.
On the way back, we pass Rua Governador Calheiro. The Câmara Municipal de São Vicente (town hall) is at the end of this street.
Rua de Liberdade de Africa (formerly Rua de Lisboa) is the most important street during the carnival. The main grandstand, where the guests of honor, city dignitaries, and jury take their seats, is located here. At the end of the street is the Palácio do Povo (People’s Palace). The colonial-style building, once a Government Palace was later converted into a museum. The museum is now closed indefinitely.
Monte Cara is one of the most famous mountains in São Vicente. Its outline resembles an upward-facing head. Looking at it from different angles, you can use your imagination to see two more faces.
In the evening, we visit the Club Nautico (Restaurant Nautilus), known for its excellent seafood. Afterwards, we watched the departure of ‘Mein Schiff 7’ from the balcony of our hotel room.
Please read on Exploring the center of Mindelo
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