The Kaptensgarden lies in the middle of the UNESCO World Heritage Site Gammelstad Church Town. At a first glance, nothing indicates that behind the entrance is one of the most renowned restaurants of Sweden.
At a closer look, we see plaques from the White Guide, Scandinavia’s premier and authoritative dining guide on the wall, which recommend Kaptensgarden since several years.
The name Kaptensgården originates from the previous owners of the house. The previous owner served in the army in World War II. After his retirement, he was a captain and so his wife called the house Kaptensgarden, the mansion of the captain.
Johan Thingvall, the current owner used to work in Stockholm in various restaurants. He has always been close to nature. The woods of Sweden are his passion.
Here he likes to go fishing and hunting together with his dogs. After the captain had died, his widow offered the house on the Swedish eBay. Johan saw it and purchased it in 2003.
Kaptensgarden can accommodate up to 110 guests. However, the huge dining room can be divided into smaller units of 6 or more.
Since January 2016, the Kaptensgarden offers live cooking experiences on special days, the only chance to eat in the restaurant. Normally it only opens for booked groups. However, you should reserve in advance. For the live cooking, one has built a small kitchen at the center of the dining hall, with a dining table for the attendees in front of it.
The head chef Johan and chef Evelina prepare the food in front of our eyes. They explain the different dishes and the menu. Johan creates his menus primarily with ingredients from the waters, forests, and farms from Norrbotten.
In between, Johan tells us stories of its hunting trips. Sometimes he travels 400 km to the north for days, stays in the tent and roams through the woods to shoot willow grouse. He is already very lucky if it can chase 10 pieces. He brought some, especially for us. The raw heart is then served with egg yellow. Johan certainly meant it well and it also tasted excellent, nevertheless, it took us a little effort to eat it.
As a welcome drink, he serves us a drink with apples are from his neighbor’s garden, a dash of lemon and cinnamon.
Our dinner menu in Kaptensgarden
Poached trout, cucumber, salad
Whitefish roe in a quail egg with red onions
Willow grouse tartare with quail egg yellow
Whitefish on oat, turnip, and herbs with local grape oil dressing
Reindeer, turnip, carrot
Sea buckthorn berries
Blueberry in shortcrust pastry with meringue
Cloudberry ice cream and Chocolate
During the dinner Johan serves us selected red and white wine. All in all, we enjoy an extraordinary Swedish-Lapland culinary experience, for which we would like to thank Johan quite cordially.
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Disclosure: Thanks to Kaptensgården and Visit Luleå for the invitation. All views and opinions are our own and not influenced by the invitation!
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