Even before we set out on our trip, we had planned a tour of São Vicente with Marion Touray, who has lived on the island for several years, has a wide network of contacts, and works as a tour guide. She wants to show us the island’s most striking sights and give us a glimpse into the lives of the local people.
From Mindelo, we drive with Marion to Monte Verde, the island’s highest mountain at 744 meters. We settle for climbing to about 500 meters because the summit is shrouded in thick fog. Nevertheless, we can enjoy the steepness of the slopes and the view over Mindelo and the northern part of the island.
The brown landscape suggests that water is a scarce commodity on the island. Like most roads on the island, this mountain road is also paved with rough cobblestones. The summit of the mountain is surrounded by a nature reserve, which would certainly be interesting if it weren’t for the fog.
After enjoying the view, we continue on to Salamansa in the north of São Vicente. As we drive through the town, we pass a water distribution station. Trucks bring water here, which residents can take home in canisters. Only wealthier residents can have the water delivered directly to their homes. In the streets, we see a few people in costume, already preparing for the upcoming carnival.
The fishing village boasts a beautiful white-sand beach, which is also home to a kitesurfing school, as the beach is ideal for windsurfing and kitesurfing. Gabriela Medes, a well-known singer from Cape Verde, happens by.
At the edge of town is a school adorned with a beautiful graffiti mural by David Leone Lima Manteiro.
Just a few kilometers further on, we arrive at Baia das Gatas with its huge, natural, and shallow bay, perfect for swimming in the wonderfully clear water. Its natural stone rim and shallow water also make it ideal for children.
In front of the bay is a large open area with a stage that attracts visitors from all over the world every year to experience the local music scene at the Baía das Gatas Festival. In August 2026, it will take place over five days for the first time.
Marion’s daughter works as a DJ and has already performed on stage. She usually lives with her boyfriend in Germany.
For the rest of the year, Baía das Gatas is primarily a weekend getaway destination.
A little further south lies the Norte Baia 1 neighborhood, which feels like an open-air museum. Beautiful graffiti adorns this place, showcasing the creativity and vibrant colors that reflect the residents’ zest for life.
A short distance further south, you come upon the ocean again and the Ocean View – Norte Baia 2 neighborhood, which resembles a modern new development. From here, however, you have a wonderful view of the sea and the coastline with its dunes.
The magnificent dunes of Saharan sand, blown over from Africa by the wind, and the dark cliffs of volcanic rock form a picturesque contrast to the blue waters of the sea.
Two houses down, however, we met Valeria Mytrokhina, an artist and naturalist who runs her workshop here.
She creates jewelry and decorations using genuine marine material. Valeria showed us seashells, fish bones, and even tiny tubes of sand formed by lightning strikes.
Her finds are not only on São Vicente but also on the island of Santa Luzia. Valeria has lived on the island with her husband for over ten years.
Her products can also be found in a small souvenir shop right next to the entrance to the Belém Tower in Mindelo.
Now we want to eat something, and Marion takes us to the Atlantis Bistro in Mindelo.
Many restaurants on the island offer live music on Sundays, where even amateurs can perform. We enjoy the food and the atmosphere and feel the zest for life radiating from the artistic performances here as well.
After lunch, Marion drives us part of the way. She drops us off just before her home. We plan to walk back to our hotel. After we’ve been walking for a while, Marion suddenly pulls up next to us again and tells us to get in. She’s just seen the Mandingas and wants to take us to see them. We don’t say no and are delighted when we arrive and see what a spectacle it is.
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